Saturday, October 25, 2014

Just Exports? No Imports?

An arbitrary Saturday in October calls for an arbitrary blog post on a style of German beer that is not so common here in the States… the Dortmunder Export, or 1E in your BJCP Style Guide.

Das Union Brauerei, Dortmund, Germany
Dortmunder Export, or simply Dortmunder, is a pale lager that was originally brewed by the Dortmunder Union Brewery in Dortmund, Germany in 1873. Dortmunders quickly became a hit among the industrial workers of Dortmund and led to Dortmunder Union becoming Germany’s largest brewery, and the city of Dortmund having the highest concentration of breweries in Germany. This of course changed with the decline of heavy industry in the area and by 1994, Dortmunder Union merged with several other breweries in Dortmund to form Brinkhoff’s Brewery.

Dortmund was an early commercial brewing center in Germany, with many breweries producing a dark wheat beer and exporting it to the neighboring cities in the Westphalian area of Germany. But in 1873, Pilsners were all the rage and a group of Dortmund brewers got together and formed the Dortmunder Union Brewery to brew their own golden colored, pale barley based, slow fermented beer under the guidance of brewmaster Fritz Brinkhoff. They produced two types: a Lagerbier and a slightly stronger Export version at around 5.5% ABV. The weaker version never caught on and was eventually scrapped.

So much fun to be had...

After WWII ended, Dortmunder Export was the most popular type of beer in Germany until Pils took its place in 1970. It hit a low point in late 1990s (right around when Dortmunder Union closed its doors) but has risen back up a bit in recent years.

Since 1873
Dortmunder Exports are pale golden in color and balanced – with the malt profile of a Helles/Munich Lager and the hop characteristics of a Pilsner, although slightly stronger than both. Neither hops nor malt dominate, but both are well balanced to provide a smooth, crisp and refreshing beer with a touch of sweetness. The subtle hop bitterness lingers in the aftertaste, although some Dortmunders finish with a slightly sweet taste. Low to medium hops are present in the nose, as well as moderate malt aroma.

Hard, minerally water is another common trait of Dortmunder lagers. The Dortmund water consisted of high levels of sulfates, carbonates and chlorides, which were often present in the taste and mouthfeel of the finished product. Some contemporary purist brewers may try to recreate that effect through burtonization, but I really don’t think that is necessary.

Some good commercial examples of this style to be on the lookout for are Germany’s DAB Export, Ayinger Jahrhundert Bier, and Great Lakes Brewing Company’s Dortmunder Gold and Dominion Lager here in the States. I also hear through my network of informants that local favorite Forge Brew Works in Lorton, VA is working on a Dortmunder… so stay tuned for that!

A very fine American version

Here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!

Saturday, October 18, 2014

When the Levee Breaks...

Almost seems like a job for the Doctor
Here’s a bit of fun beer history trivia for your mid-October Saturday afternoon needs: Yesterday was the 200th anniversary of the London Beer Flood. It’s exactly what it sounds like – over one million liters (264,172 gallons) of delicious porter erupted from a broken vat at the Horse Shoe Brewery  in London on 17 October 1814, creating a tidal wave over 15 feet high that killed eight people and demolished two nearby homes. Between 8 and 9,000 barrels of beer were lost in the accident.

After the initial tidal wave, the beer inundated the nearby slum area of St. Giles Rookery, flooding basements where whole families lived. Local Londoners responded to the disaster to aide with search and rescue, and according to some reports, didn't steal a drop of the brew that was all over the streets. Other accounts, which appear to be unfounded, spoke of drunken riots as people drank the lost beer.

According to inspectors’ notes, there had been an indication that the vat was unstable earlier in the afternoon the day of the accident. Apparently, a metal hoop had snapped, however the brewery was cleared of any wrong doing and received a refund for the excise duty they paid prior to making the beer. Horse Shoe Brewery went back to work producing beer shortly thereafter, but they closed their doors for good in 1921.

From the newsies of London Town

This of course makes me wonder how it would've gone down in 21st Century America.

First of all, we need to suspend reality for a moment, because obviously, our completely unoppressive laws don’t allow for production breweries to exist in commercial, retail or residential areas. In fact, our government has a tough time differentiating between production and nano/peco “neighborhood” breweries, which are also difficult to place in a retail space, at least for now.

But if we pretend that a production brewery could exist juxtaposed to a residential neighborhood area, and that facility did have an accident similar to the London Beer Flood of 1814, I have a sneaking suspicion that your average American would in fact help themselves to free beer from the street. There is obviously a health concern involved, but I still think people would find a way to get over it and take advantage of the lost brew.

Save the beer!
I do not perceive that it would be quite the emergency that the London flood was, and therefore the urge to play the hero wouldn't be present. There would be nothing stopping people from dropping what they were doing for a good old fashion drinking party.

Not to mention that the cleanup involved would shut down traffic for a month (here in the DC metro area anyways) and the subsequent inability to move would only lend to the lack of motivation among the general populace, and therefore push them towards getting drunk on free beer.

In other words, while the stories of drunk Londoners might be unfounded, I think Americans in 2014 would absolutely take the opportunity for a party. In fact, it seems highly unlikely that the Londoners didn't get plastered during their flood too, but if the storytellers say so… so be it.

Anyways, there’s some interesting history for you.

Here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Beers That Go Bump In the Night (Redux)

A few years back, I published a blog post on the topic of selecting beers to serve at your Hallowe’en party. I figured that since that topic is reemerging leading up to the 2014 observation of All Hallow’s Eve, and that particular post is a few years old now, what better opportunity to update my thoughts on the subject and give you some current Hallowe’eny recommendations. Although, the ones from two years ago still apply as well.

This list is in no particular order, and is nowhere even close to comprehensive.


Mischievous little beer
Warlock, by Southern Tier Brewing Company in Lakewood, NY

The first beer I recommend you go get for your late-October partying needs is Southern Tier’s Warlock. Warlock is an Imperial Stout that is brewed with pumpkins and weighs in at 8.6% ABV. It’s dark, mysterious and delicious, with a huge roasted character and spicy pumpkin pie aroma. And since it’s made by the same people that make the world famous Pumking (pumpkin ale), it pairs well with that beer, almost like they did it on purpose. Warlock also pairs well with BBQ, smoked or roasted food, vanilla ice cream (especially floating in the beer) and carrot cake!


Bear plus deer equals beer. Get it?
Fall Hornin, by Anderson Valley Brewing Company in Boonville, CA

This pumpkin ale is a lot less menacing than the Warlock… much more of an easy drinker at 6% ABV. Flavor notes include caramel and spices, and the nose consists of caramelized malt and baked bread, with subtle hints of cinnamon, nutmeg, pumpkin and seasonal spices. Fall Hornin goes quite well with sweet fruit desserts, roasted vegetables, and steak.




Ole reliable
Pumpkin Ale, by Schlafly Brewing Company in St. Louis, MO

Schlafly’s pumpkin ale is definitely one of the best pumpkin ales on the market, and it is easily found in just about every region of the country. It’s an 8% ABV brew so it packs a little punch, but there is no alcohol burn at all. This is a very smooth, balanced, sweet pumpkin beer that is everything you want and nothing you don’t. Flavors consist of roasted pumpkin, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. This one will pair well with hamburgers, roasted vegetable dishes and sweet desserts.



Great beer
Pumpkin Hunter, by Devils Backbone Brewing Company in Roseland, VA

Getting a bit more local (to where I live anyways), I give you the Pumpkin Hunter from Devils Backbone. It is a delicious orange/amber colored brew with subtle pumpkin sweetness and pumpkin pie aroma in the nose. It’s an easy drinker at 5.1% ABV, and pairs well with grilled meat, roasted vegetables and deserts.




Rare, but awesome
Fermentation without Representation, by Epic Brewing Company in Salt Lake City, UT and DC Brau from Washington, DC

FWR is a collaboration between two terrific breweries that sought to build a spectacular imperial pumpkin porter. This beer is smooth, blending light and dark roasted barley, pumpkin, allspice, nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon and cloves. The resulting beer is delicious, with chocolate, burnt raisins and plum notes in the flavor. It’s 8% ABV, so you’ll need to be careful with it, but definitely worth the effort it takes to find it.



Bet you can't drink just one...
Post Road Pumpkin Ale, by Brooklyn Brewery in New York City, NY

Post Road is a very sweet pumpkin beer. It is orange/amber colored with a pumpkin nose and biscuit and pumpkin centered flavor. It’s only 5% ABV, so you could drink several with little problems, but the sweetness can be overwhelming. Still, very delicious and a welcome addition to your partying needs. Pair this with roasted ham and turkey, root vegetables, or mac and cheese.




No filter required.
UFO Pumpkin, by Harpoon Brewing Company in Boston, MA

Harpoon’s UFO (UnFiltered Offering) Pumpkin is an unfiltered pumpkin ale that combines Pacific Northwest hops, spices, barley and pumpkin to create a cloudy orange brew that is sweet and earthy. It is 5.9% ABV and drinks easily with a sweet finish and aftertaste. I recommend pairing it with desert, or with anything off the grill.




It’s certainly not a comprehensive list, but it’ll get you to where you want to be. Some of these are heavy hitters, and others are perfect for your guests who are little gun-shy about the whole craft beer and pumpkins thing. I’ve also given you some informal tasting notes with which you can plan your menu. You’re welcome.

And happy Hallowe’en.

Here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!!!