Saturday, August 11, 2012

How Sam Got His Groove Back

Maybe the Boston leaves start turning different colors in August

It’s August. It’s in the mid to upper 90s every day. The sun is blazing in the sky and the kids are still all at the pool instead of in class. People are still going on summer vacations and grills are still being fired up for burgers and dogs. What does this all mean you ask?

Like drinking pumpkin pie, and beer
Well aside from the obvious Halloween decorations for sale at the grocery store, it means the Sam Adams Harvest Variety pack is back on the shelves. I know it seems just as ridiculous of a thing to be selling in August as the Halloween decorations are, but allow yourself to get passed that for a moment. This is a pretty big deal.

Every “fall,” the Boston Beer Company releases their Samuel Adams Harvest Variety Pack, which consists of six “autumnally oriented” brews. Three of which are always present in the line-up, while the other three seem to always be in flux, probably because the folks at Boston are allowing themselves some flexibility to keep things interesting and adjust to the dynamic marketplace. The three that always make the cut are their Octoberfest Marzenbier, their Harvest Pumpkin Ale and the old-reliable flagship, their Boston Lager.

The 2012 Harvest also features a Dunkleweizen, their acclaimed Latitude 48 IPA and their Hazel Brown, which is a brand new star in the Sam Adams galaxy. These three replace the 2011 Harvest Pack swing beers, which were their Irish Red Ale, their Black Lager and the 2011 Harvest newbie, their Bonfire Rauchbier.

I wish Sam Adams would learn how to
spell OKTOBERFEST!!!
I said at the time that the 2011 Harvest collection was disorganized and lacked any redeeming quality whatsoever. The Black Lager tasted bland and the Rauchbier was a train wreck, with far too much smoked malt that left me thinking I had just drank an ash tray. Beyond that, the Irish Red, Octoberfest, Pumpkin and even their old-reliable Boston Lager just lacked punch. It seemed as though the boys at Boston had gone so far to increase their brand and introduce so many new brews with varying flavors that it was starting to affect the quality of their existing beer; almost like they were watered-down. I walked away from the 2011 Harvest pack thinking that Sam Adams was on the verge of crossing the fine line between brewing for the beer and brewing for the money.

This 2012 Harvest collection is different. The mainstays are once again flavorful and vibrant.  The Pumpkin Ale is absolutely delicious. The Octoberfest is spicy and bold and Boston Lager tastes more hoppy than usual (which is always a good thing). Bringing the Dunkleweizen back to the Harvest was a great move as it is darker and robust but the wheat lightens it up a bit, making it a perfect seasonal transition beer. The inclusion of the Latitude 48 IPA is also interesting, as it seems that the brewers up in Bean Town are finally embracing the reality that IPAs drive the industry. In fact, the Latitude 48 has been included in all of the seasonal packs from Sam Adams in 2012 so far. If their intention is to make it a flagship like their Boston Lager, it’s a great move.

The best thing to happen to hazelnuts... ever
And then there is the belle of the ball - the rookie - the new brew of the season: Hazel Brown. Hazel is a nut brown ale with distinct hazelnut aroma and flavor that is accentuated by slightly sweet caramel and toffee malt notes. She has a medium body, smooth finish and an underlying hoppy spiciness. If you like brown ales (particularly nut browns), you will love this beer. If you don’t like brown ales, or are unsure if you like them, give her a try anyways. The hazelnut flavor is not overwhelming, but rather perfectly balanced and delightful.

It makes me happy to see that last year’s perceived drop in quality from the Boston Beer Company appears to have been a fluke. The spring and summer variety packs were both wonderful, and the Harvest variety pack is no different. Aside from the whole August release thing, this seasonal collection is something to be sought out and enjoyed. It appears Sam truly has gotten his groove back.

Here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!

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