|
Soaked barley roasting on
an open fire... sing it Nat... |
This post is all about the style of
beer known as rauchbier, or smoked beer if you speak English. I have
beer-enlightened friends who have told me that they LOVE smoked beer and I have
beer-enlightened friends who have told me that they HATE them. The flavor of
smoked beer is, as the name would suggest, smoky, which for many people is
different and takes a bit to get used to. It is also possible for a brewer to
go overboard with the smoky notes and thus make the beer undrinkable.
The key to achieving smoky flavor in
beer comes from drying the malted barley over an open flame, which causes the
grain to retain some of the smoke from the fire. In the olden days, malt was
dried out either using sunlight or over an open flame. Because using an open
flame was quicker than dying the malt out in the sun, smoky beers were more
common than they are today.
|
Schlenkerla Brewery's Rauchbier |
Beginning in the 18th century,
kiln drying of malt became progressively more common and, by the mid-19th
century, had become the near-universal method for drying malted grain. Since
the kiln method shunts the smoke away from the wet malt, a smoky flavor is not
imparted to the grain, or to the subsequent beer. As a result, smoke flavor in
beer became less and less common and eventually disappeared almost entirely
from the brewing world.
Certain breweries, however, maintained
the smoked beer tradition by continuing to use malt which had been dried over
open flames. Two brewpubs in Bamberg, Germany, Schlenkerla and Spezial, have
continued smoked beer production for nearly two centuries. Both are still in
operation today and both dry their malt over fires made from beechwood logs, producing
several varieties of Rauchbier.
|
The gold-standard for rauchbiers in America |
Here in the States, there are several
brewers who dabble in rauchbiers. Geoff Larson, founder and brew master of the
Alaskan Brewing Company, made a smoked beer, Alaskan Smoked Porter, in 1988
influenced by the Rauchbiers of Bamberg. In 2008, New Glarus Brewing Company in
Wisconsin produced Smoke on the Porter, a beer produced partially with
Bamberg-smoked malts and partially with malts smoked at a neighboring
smokehouse. Samuel Adams of Boston began brewing their Bonfire Rauchbier in
2011, making its premiere in Sam Adam's Harvest Collection alongside their well-known
Oktoberfest and Pumpkin Ale. The Spoetzl Brewery in Shiner, Texas used to make
a Helles style beer that used mesquite smoke for flavor called Shiner
Smokehouse, but I believe they have discontinued it.
Another cool side-effect of smoking the
malts is that rauchbiers pair extremely well with steak, burgers or any other
grilled meat. The smoky notes of the beer will play off the smoky notes from
the food, and you’ll be in smoky heaven (not actually a place).
So go get some rauchbier at your local
beer store – and experience a delightful spin on what you’re used to.
Here’s to craft-brewed happiness…
Cheers!