The Beers of Summer (Part 1)

Not a care in the world

… and I can tell you my love for you will still be strong, after the beers of summer have gone…

Now that the unofficial beginning of the summer season has come and gone, it’s time to focus on the legions of summery styles that you will start seeing at your local brewery and/or beer store. Each week in the “Beers of Summer” series, I will choose a different beer style that is generally associated with the summer months and dissect it, giving you some history, characteristics, flavor notes, fun facts, anecdotes, recommendations, etc. Hopefully, this will allow us all to better enjoy the beers we drink during the next few months.

So without further administrivia, let’s talk about…

Kölsch.

One of the most common questions I hear asked in breweries during this time of year is “What the heck is a kölsch?” It’s an understandable question, considering it’s not self-explanatory and big beer has nothing even close to a kölsch in their repertoire.

Kölsch, as the name might suggest, is a German style that hails from Cologne (Köln), Germany. It is clear with a bright, straw-yellow hue, has a prominent but not extreme hoppiness, and is less bitter that the standard German pale lager. Kölsch is warm-fermented between 55-70 degrees, making it an ale, but it is then cold-conditioned (or lagered). In other words, it’s a hybrid, or a mystery wrapped inside of a riddle and juxtaposed to conundrum. Or so I’m told.

The first mention of the term kölsch was in 1918 when it was used to describe the beer that had been brewed by the Sünner brewery in Cologne since 1906. Their beer had been developed from the cloudier variant on German bottom-fermenting beers (lagers) called Wiess. Prior to World War II, there were over 40 breweries in Cologne, but many were destroyed during the war. Kölsch didn't compete well with the lagers of Germany until around the 1960s when it began to rise in popularity. The Cologne brewers produced 50 million liters of kölsch in 1960, and by 1980, were producing 370 million liters. Due to the economic decline in more recent decades, Cologne production of kölsch has declined to 240 million liters, produced by 13 breweries.

Interestingly, kölsch is strictly defined by an agreement between members of the Cologne Brewery Association known as the Kölsch Konvention. This agreement was signed in 1986 and states that kölsch cannot be brewed outside the Cologne region. So while we make beer here in the states that we call kölsch, the Germans in Cologne would deny it is kölsch.

The biergarten outside of the Fruh Brewery in Cologne, one of the original and best-known brewers of the style

As you may have already guessed, the folks in Cologne take this stuff pretty seriously. Kölsch is sold and treated as a common man’s beer, and the use of words like “special” or “premium” in the beer names, a practice common in Germany, is discouraged. If you were to go to a pub or brewery in Cologne, the beer waiters would speak roughly and crudely at you, which is another common practice. The beers are served at 50 degrees in a tall cylindrical glass known as a Stange (pole), Reagenzglas (test tube), or Fingerhut (thimble). Not only that, the waiters will replace your empty glasses with full ones without you asking until you place your coaster over the top, indicating you've had enough.

This is how you say "no more" in Cologne

Kölsch is usually light to medium in body with a very pale color. The hop bitterness is medium to slightly assertive, and a somewhat vinous grape-like, dry flavor is present as well. They are generally between 4% and 6% ABV.

As for recommendations, I have never been to Cologne so I cannot recommend any “actual” kölsches, but the American pseudo-kölsch beers that I've had are quite good. Schlafly Kölsch and Saranac Kölsch are very good. The Sam Adams East-West Kölsch from a few years ago was very good as well. If you live in my neck of the woods, the Kölsch at Forge Beer Works in Lorton, Virginia and Bad Wolf Brewing Company in Manassas, Virginia really hit the spot on a warm late spring/early summer day.

So now you have the proper knowledge to support ordering a Kölsch at your local brewery this summer. It is an interesting style that is light, crisp and refreshing – perfect for the summer heat. Don’t be scared… just drink. You won’t be sorry.

Here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!

Never Forget

Those who have been following this gibberish for any length of time are already acutely aware that I never need a reason to drink craft beer. I drink because it’s craft beer – I drink it because it’s there. If there just happens to be a more interesting reason that coincides with the two already listed, that is an added bonus. So it seems foolhardy for me to dedicate an entire blog post to explaining why I drink craft beer. But every now and then, a more noble reason presents itself and I am privileged to raise a glass to a more worthy cause. Memorial Day, which happens to be on Monday, is one of those noble causes. So if you’ll indulge me for a few minutes, I’d like to take a break from the usual beer-fueled shenanigans and pen a few somber words on the matter.

Memorial Day is the day on which we remember and honor the brave men and women who have paid the ultimate price for our freedoms. Unlike Veteran’s Day, which is meant to honor all veterans, Memorial Day is specifically intended for those who made the ultimate sacrifice while defending America and her citizens.

While deployed to Iraq from November 2005 to November 2006, I had the honor of serving with thousands of brave Soldiers, Airmen, Sailors and Marines, many of whom didn't come home with us. There were three such amazing individuals who I knew personally, and had daily contact with, right up until the day they were killed. Two were killed by IED detonations, while another was struck down by an enemy sniper. All three of them continue on in my memories every day, but especially on days like Memorial Day.

In subsequent deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan, of which I was not a part, three more of my friends and fellow soldiers were killed in the line of duty and service to this great country.

This past October, another brave patriot who I had the pleasure of serving with was taken from us in Afghanistan while literally forfeiting his ability to escape danger to save the lives of his comrades who were taking enemy fire. He is sorely missed.

All seven of these courageous souls, and the countless others who have died in military service to our exceptional nation, deserve to be honored, and they deserve to be remembered by those of us they left behind. Whether you personally knew any of them or not is irrelevant – they died protecting the freedoms that we enjoy every day.

And while I may not need a reason to drink delicious American craft beer, on Memorial Day, I drink because of the six Soldiers and one Marine that I had the honor of serving with – I drink because they ensured that I have the right to. I drink because of all of the brave individuals who have sacrificed everything on the altar of freedom. I raise my pints to them, in remembrance of them, and tell them, “thanks.” It’s not the most I can do, but it’s certainly the least.

So when you gaze upon the American flag being flown at half-mast until noon on Monday, and then watch as it is raised to full mast for the remainder of the day, take a moment to think about why – and never forget those who died so that we all can be Americans, and have the countless freedoms we all take for granted every other day of the year – including drinking amazing craft beer, made by Americans just like us.

That’s why I drink craft beer on Memorial Day.

Here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!

New Breweries in Northern Virginia!!!

Absolutely!

What better way to wrap up the week-long celebrations of American Craft Beer Week 2014 than by supporting local brewers? And what better way to support local brewers than by announcing the recent or soon arrivals of the new local brewers?

I consider myself fortunate to live in the time that I live, in the place that I live. Northern Virginia is in the midst of a craft beer renaissance and the growth is amazing. I’ll choose 2010 as my arbitrary start date to demonstrate the explosion of craft beer in my local area – in 2010, there was very little crafty deliciousness being made in Northern Virginia. If I recall, Mad Fox was in Falls Church (or was getting ready to open), Vintage 50 was operational in Leesburg, Blue and Gray was open in Fredericksburg and Capitol City’s Shirlington Brewpub was either open or was opening.

Compare that with 2014, just four years later – we've added Port City in Alexandria, Lost Rhino and Beltway in Ashburn, Leesburg Beer Co, Ironwood Tavern and Crooked Run in Leesburg, Adroit Theory and Corcoran Brewing in Purcellville, Mad Horse Brewpub in Lovettsville, Bad Wolf and Heritage in Manassas, Old Bust Head in Warrenton, Forge in Lorton and Adventure Brewing in Stafford. Talk about growth!

Careful, man. There's a beverage involved here.

I would like to take this opportunity to give shout-outs to a couple of the really new breweries I just listed. The first newby I want to give a shout out to is the brand new Adventure Brewing Company in Stafford, Virginia, which just opened today!!! They will be offering their Super Power Pale Ale, Expedition IPA, Backpack Wheat and Stiletto Stout as their four staple beers, as well as three seasonals – Grapefruit Wheat, Winter Lager and Bacon Bock. Their hours are Thursday and Friday from 6-10, Saturday from 12-10 and Sunday from 12-6. Go give them your business… I’ll be doing that myself shortly.

The next brewery I will highlight in this quick trip around new Northern Virginia beers is Old Bust Head Brewing Company, which is located out by Jiffy Lube Live between Gainsville, Manassas, Bristow and Warrenton. OBH has been open for a few months now and is starting to make their presence known. I have encountered them in person at the Battle of the Brews in Manassas a few weeks ago and I have also been able to acquire their delicious beers in bottles at the Wegmans in Woodbridge. OBH is currently constructing their tap room and they hope to have it finished sometime this summer. They currently offer their Bust Head English Pale Ale, Wildcat IPA, Chukker Czech Pilsner and Chinquapin Chestnut Porter (which is truly excellent).  OBH would love to have you over for a tour and tasting in their brewhouse on Fridays from 4-7, Saturdays from 2-6 or Sundays from 1-4. They are another brewery I have yet to visit, but I've had a few of their beers now, and they are very good.

Another cool logo

But guess what… we’re still not done! As I type this, there are a few new breweries in various stages of planning and preparation that I have been made aware of. I tacked on that last caveat because it seems like every day that I hear of a new-new brewery coming to Northern Virginia, so there is a high likelihood that I will miss one.

DRADIS is showing four contacts

As of today, May 17, 2014, the following breweries in planning have crossed my radar: Fair Winds Brewing Company, which will be opening in Lorton, Virginia in 2014, Potomac Ale Works, which will be coming to Woodbridge, Virginia in the summer of 2015, New World Brewing Company and Caboose Brewing Company, which will both be coming to Vienna, Virginia sometime in the future and Old Ox Brewery, which is scheduled to open in the spring of 2014.

That’s quite a few new places to drink craft beer. And I am willing to assume that I have missed a few in development that simply aren't on my radar yet. All of this growth only cements Northern Virginia as a craft beer destination, which is good for all of us beer people – brewers, consumers, distributors and retailers alike. Forget about a phantom saturation point… an inundated community is a strong community, and a strong community is good for business.

So go check these newcomers out and cross their palms with silver in exchange for some craft-brewed deliciousness… and for actual reviews, in the event that I make it to all of these wonderful places in short order… continue reading this nonsensical blog, or follow me on Twitter @SousBrewer.

Here’s to Northern Virginia, craft beer, new local breweries and American Craft Beer Week!

And here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!

Is it the Food, or is it the Beer?

Great food, great beer, everything you want and nothing you don't.

I've been thinking a lot about brewpubs lately, and I keep coming back to the same internal debate – about whether the food in a brewpub is more important than the beer, or vice versa. Obviously, the short answer is that they are both highly instrumental to the success of the business, but if we force ourselves to not settle for the short answer, and weigh competing factors in order to arrive at a non-lawyer-like decision, which one is more important?

The first thing that pops into my head is that a brewpub, by definition, is a restaurant first, and that it makes and serves its own beer on site. This is easy to digest until you apply the reverse of what this statement is actually saying, which is that a brewpub is NOT a brewery first, that just happens to make and sell food on site. I suppose you could draw up a business model that operates that way, but the traditional, and proven to be effective, model is that a brewpub is a restaurant – not a brewery.

Here's to the chef, brewer and photographer!

If that is true, then it stands to reason that the menu and the quality of the food on that menu must be more important to the success of the operation than the beer selection and quality of the beers on that selection. After all, if you’re running a restaurant, your competitors are other restaurants, and your customers are hungry restaurant patrons who have (depending on the market) hundreds of other restaurants to choose from. You can’t plan on continued success if your brewpub is serving the same food options as the 10 other restaurants located in the same part of town as you, particularly if their food is better than yours.

Certainly, the beer plays a factor. Most people in this line of work agree that in a market inundated with options like the restaurant industry, businesses that thrive are the ones that set themselves apart from the pack. A brewpub, again by definition, automatically has that “twist” in the fact that they brew beer on site and serve that beer with their food. It is an installed gimmick that is enough to separate a brewpub from the other non-brewpub restaurants in the area, but only to a point, and only if the food is good.

The buzz that is created when a new brewpub opens, particularly around those of us obsessed with beer, will make for an initial surge of interest by the local customers – or in other words, the beer people will be lined up outside your door and hopefully bring some hungry people with them. If the food is good, the beer people and their friends will tell the non-beer people and their friends and you may just have a thriving restaurant on your hands. If the food is not good, or the price isn't right, you’ll be left with a bunch of beer people hanging round drinking, but not eating. The place will most likely fail.

People love to see the tanks at a brewpub... and why not? They're cool looking!

Now, here’s where I’m going to shift gears. That buzz and initial surge of interest is exactly why you cannot place all the emphasis on the food while ignoring the beer. Remember what I said about why a brewpub works. When someone decides, whether by forethought or impulsive decision, that they are going to go out for dinner, something will cause them to choose one restaurant from amongst the multitude of options. Food quality, food options, price, location and atmosphere are certainly factors. Beer is too, particularly among those in the ever growing craft beer drinking segment of America. Those beer people will line up on opening day to come drink beer at the newest craft brewery in their local market, but if your beer is just “meh,” they will stop coming. And the gimmick that separates your restaurant from the rest is gone. Now you’re just a restaurant like all the others, and you've lost your advantage. Not only that, you’re now paying for a brewery that is not making money, and you’re likely to fail.

I may or may not be guilty of
tweeting pictures of beer - follow
me on twitter @SousBrewer

Not to mention the free public relations and marketing that the beer community will do for you if your beer is good. A lesser known feature of the growing American craft beer movement is the social media aspect of it. Beer people are on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, etc… all the time. They blog about beer (obviously). They engage in their communities with brewers and fellow beer people. They are at beer festivals, they have online forums and they have national associations and websites. They have national competitions and conventions. My point is, if your brewpub makes great beer, you will tap into that social network without even trying, and you’ll get to the point where your brewpub becomes a destination amongst beer people all over the country. So that when a beer person from San Diego, California has to travel to Washington, D.C. for business, they will be planning out opportunities to go drink local craft beer in the D.C. area, and through the social media network, they’ll be pointed at your restaurant.

So which one is more critical… food or beer? I think from a business standpoint, food is probably more important. After all, your competitors are not other breweries… your competitors are other restaurants. If your beer is great, the other breweries will help you succeed. If your food is great, the other restaurants will change their ways in order to better compete or suffer a loss of business. And if you can manage to do both well, I think there is a high probability you’ll succeed.

Honestly, at the risk of sounding like a lawyer, I think it depends on who you feel your customers are and how much you value the different demographics of people who you serve. It’s important to target both people looking for good beer and people who want a place to eat good food. Sometimes, they are the same person, but often, it will be hard to reconcile them, and perhaps not even necessary. If you recognize that you are catering to two different segments of the population, and try to court both of them effectively, you’ll have a reputation amongst both groups and be more likely to turn tables and pint glasses.

*** Blogger’s Note: The Sous Brewer is not a restaurateur, nor does he have any formal business or hospitality training. He is merely a beer nerd who thinks he knows everything, admits that he probably doesn't, and surrounds himself with people who actually do. If you’re looking to open a brewpub, please DO NOT consider this source as being authoritative in any way, shape or form. Feel free to use these thoughts of mine to inspire your own creative juices, but please seek the guidance of people who know about these sorts of things before opening your brewpub. ***

Just imagine doing this kind of business...

Here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!