Them's fightin' words! |
This is a blog post about those founding fathers, and their relationship to
our favorite malted-grain-based beverage, made the correct way of course. I
recommend you open a second browser page or a second tab and dial up some
patriotic music to grace your eardrums while reading this. Might I suggest the
Battle Hymn of the Republic or the Stars and Stripes Forever? If nothing else,
hum a tune in your head. Take a few moments to come up with one. I’ll wait.
Okay, ready?
Believe it or not (and you probably should), colonial Americans drank beer
- a lot of it. It was almost exclusively home-brewed and, although the basic
principles of brewing were similar to what we use today, some of the
ingredients they used would be downright weird today. Potato beer, for example,
was quite popular, with recipes for this “excellent beverage” published in a
number of sources from the day. Molasses, ginger, spruce, treacle, and even
peas were also common to find in brewing recipes of the era.
George Washington's recipe for his 11% ABV "small beer" |
Like most land owners of their age, the Founding Fathers made beer at home
(it was actually their wives, servants, and slaves that did most of the brewing)
and given their fame (and tendency to keep good records), we are lucky enough
to have their recipes. George Washington famously boycotted his beloved
imported British porters just before war broke out and lent his support to a
bill that called for the avoidance of British beer, tea and other cornerstones
of daily life (the bill in question was crafted by one Samuel Adams). Today, Washington's
personal formula for “small beer”—an everyday drink that might be consumed by
children, servants and the infirm – can be found at the New York Public Library.
If brewed strictly to his methods, this beer would clock in around the 11% ABV
mark, with the addition of ample amounts of molasses as the main culprit.
Thomas Jefferson originally left the brewing to his wife, Martha. In the
early 1770s, she was managing the production of 15 gallons of small beer every
two weeks or so. Brewing at Monticello wasn’t on Jefferson's radar at first,
but he seemed to enjoy a renewed interest in the early part of the new
nineteenth century when he began purchasing books on brewing, and mentioned it
more frequently in his letters. Things began to turn around at the outbreak of
the War of 1812, when Jefferson employed Joseph Miller, an English brewer who
was unable to return to his native country, to improve Monticello's beers.
Miller taught Jefferson’s slaves his skills, and before long, Monticello was
turning out some quality brews. It is perhaps somewhat surprising that
Jefferson, a committed chronicler of just about everything else, did not leave
a full recipe for Monticello's beers, but it is possible to extract his
ingredients and methods through his papers (including the design of his state-of-the-art
brew house).
Another Founding Father who had a hand in our early beer culture was James
Madison, who proposed founding a national brewery and creating a Secretary of Beer.
Congress, of course, did not support his grand plans, with one of the dissenting
opinions coming from Benjamin Franklin, who felt that his fellow printers
imbibed a little too freely:
One of the original gangsters of politic'n and beer drinkin' |
“every day a Pint before Breakfast, a
Pint at Breakfast with his Bread and Cheese; a Pint between Breakfast and
Dinner; a Pint at Dinner; a Pint in the afternoon about Six O'Clock, and
another when he had done his Day's-Work. I thought it a detestable Custom. But
it was necessary, he suppos'd, to drink strong Beer that he might be strong to
Labour. I endeavour'd to convince him that the Bodily Strength afforded by Beer
could only be in Proportion to the Grain or Flour of the Barley dissolved in
the Water of which it was made.”
I might be crazy, but the last part of that quote sounds like Franklin is
saying that a beer is only as good as the ingredients that went into it. I couldn’t
agree more with Ben.
In spite of his aversions towards nationally endorsed drinking, Franklin
kept a recipe around for making spruce beer. Like Washington's recipe, it
called for large amounts of molasses or sugar. He used essence of spruce rather
than fresh sprigs, though other contemporary recipes, mainly from New England,
used the plant directly. Other brewers further differentiated between white
spruce beer, made with sugar, and brown spruce beer, using molasses; it seems
Franklin enjoyed both.
Modern day brewers brewing up historical beers - Yards Brewing Co in Philadelphia, PA |
Today, historic beers are often recreated but are typically adjusted a bit
for the modern palate, and for a population that is not accustomed to drinking
alcohol all day, every day. Philadelphia’s Yards Brewing Company (Philly Shout
Out!) makes a line of beers called the Ales of the Revolution series that includes
George Washington's Tavern Porter, Poor Richard's Tavern Spruce Ale, and Thomas
Jefferson's Tavern Ale. Each beer is based on thorough research, although there
are certain refinements that ensure each one is pleasing to drinkers today. Brewer
Tom Kehoe has noted the difficulty of using some of the historic ingredients on
a commercial scale. Modern brewing techniques also ensure consistency from
batch to batch, something early American drinkers could rarely hope to enjoy.
Tom Jefferson would be proud |
Starr Hill has also used Monticello's records to create Monticello Reserve
Ale, available on-site at Jefferson's home. Their brewer, Levi Duncan, intends
to brew an entirely historically accurate (and, in all likelihood, quite sour)
version for testing purposes at some point in the future, if he hasn’t already.
Another place to find colonial brews is the Historic Foodways program at
Colonial Williamsburg, where visitors can watch the eighteenth century brewing
process in person, and occasionally there is some sampling of the exact replica
beers.
Happy Birthday America – go celebrate your independence and your beer drinking forefathers who
fought against tyranny and oppression to ensure our liberty and freedom to
drink great beer. Raise a pint to them, and raise a pint to the brewers today
who make beer the correct way and are fighting to free us from the tyranny of
industrial mega-breweries and their sub-standard brewing practices and
ingredients (sorry… had to put one more plug in there).
Here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!