The Truth Behind Lagers

The homebrewer's solution to cold fermentation

The word “lager” is perhaps one of the most overused and misunderstood terms in the entire beer universe. It is simply defined as a type of beer that is fermented and conditioned at low temperatures. In truth, it is one of the two basic classifications of beer in existence; the other being ale. Unlike their ancient ale brethren, lagers have only been a thing since the mid-nineteenth century, though many have speculated that “lagering” may have been “discovered” as far back as the Dark Ages, when some European brewers may have stored their beer in ice caves for later consumption. What they found was that the beer that was stored and fermented cold had a much clearer and cleaner feel.

The main technical difference between ales and lagers is the yeast. All lagers are fermented using bottom or cold-fermenting Saccharomyces uvarum yeast which prefers cold temperatures and literally sinks to the bottom of the fermentation vessel. It was discovered in 1830 by the brewers at the Carlsberg Brewery. In addition to cold temperatures and bottom fermenting, lager yeast takes longer to do its work than its cousin Saccharomyces cervisiae (ale yeast) and needs to age before the process is complete. This longer, colder fermentation process inhibits the production of esters (which give beer a more fruity taste) and avoids other fermentation byproducts common in ales. The lager process creates beers with a generally cleaner, smoother, crisper, and mellower taste. Unlike ales, lagers should always be served cold.

The original clydesdale-drawn beer delivery wagon - take that Anheuser-Busch

The lager is the most popular style of beer in the world, with some stating that it accounts for 90% of all beers consumed, although a large portion of this is from the mass produced watered down lagers of the major US breweries. Lagers rose to prominence in the early twentieth century when the earliest refrigeration systems were introduced. Cheap electric refrigeration after the Second World War lead to pale lager styles dominating the continent of Europe. Meanwhile, the American climate necessitated the advent of refrigeration for the distribution of food over long distances during scorching summer months. This new method of keeping things cold allowed lagers to be made where lagers had never been made before, and facilitated the growing popularity of the style.

When most people think of lagers, they immediately think of Budweiser, Miller, Heineken, or any of the other mass-produced industrial beers out there that are more concerned with cutting cost than making a flavorful beer. It’s unfortunate, because these lagers are all what are called “pale lagers” and only represent one of the many different types of lager. The pale lager type is a generic spin-off of the pilsner style, which are a type of lager that originated in the Pilsen area of Bohemia in present day Czech Republic. Where pilsners are known for high carbonation, tangy hop notes from the native Czech saaz hops and a dense, white head, industrial pale lagers are known for light to medium hop impressions and very little malt character or flavor as a result of the prevalent use of non-malt additives such as rice and corn to reduce production costs.

Other types of lager include…

America's oldest

Amber Lagers: Amber lagers are a vaguely defined style of lager much favored by US lager brewers. They are darker in color, anywhere from amber to copper hued, and generally more fully flavored than a standard pale lager. Caramel malt flavors are typical and hopping levels vary considerably from one brewery to the next, though they are frequently hoppier than the true Vienna lager styles on which they are loosely based. Alcohol levels are generally a maximum of 5% ABV.

Black/Schwarz Beer: Originally brewed in Thuringia, a state in eastern Germany, these lager style brews were known to be darker in color than their Munich counterparts. Often relatively full-bodied, rarely under 5% ABV, these beers classically feature a bitter chocolate, roasted malt note and a rounded character, and hop accents are generally low. This obscure style was picked up by Japanese brewers and is made in small quantities by all of Japan’s major brewers. Schwarz beers are not often attempted by US craft brewers.

Bock: Bocks are a specific type of strong lager historically associated with Germany and specifically the town of Einbeck. These beers range in color from pale to deep amber tones, and feature a decided sweetness on the palate. Bock styles are an exposition of malty sweetness that is classically associated with the character and flavor of Bavarian malt. Alcohol levels are more potent, typically 5-6% ABV, and hop aromas are generally low though hop bitterness can serve as a balancing factor against the malt sweetness. Many of these beers’ names or labels feature some reference to a goat, which is a play on words in that the word bock also refers to a male goat in the German language. Many brewers choose to craft these beers for consumption in the spring (often called Maibock) or winter, when their warmth can be fully appreciated.

Dark Lager/Dunkel: Dunkel is the original style of lager, serving as the forerunner to the pale lagers of today. They originated in and around Bavaria, and are widely brewed both there and around the world. This is often what the average consumer is referring to when they think of dark beer. At their best these beers combine the dryish chocolate or licorice notes associated with the use of dark roasted malts and the roundness and crisp character of a lager. Examples brewed in and around Munich tend to be a little fuller-bodied and sometimes have a hint of bready sweetness to the palate, a characteristic of the typical Bavarian malts used.

Beautiful Salvator Dopplebocks

Doppelbock: This is a sub-category of the bock style. Doppelbocks are extra strong, rich and weighty lagers characterized by an intense malty sweetness with a note of hop bitterness to balance the sweetness. Color can vary from full amber to dark brown and alcohol levels are potently high for lagers, typically 7-8% ABV. Doppelbocks were first brewed by the Paulaner monks in Munich. At the time, it was intended to be consumed as "liquid bread" during Lent. Most Bavarian examples end in the suffix “ator,” in deference to the first commercial example which was named Salvator (savior) by the Paulaner brewers.

Dortmunder Export: Well balanced, smooth, and refreshing, Dortmunders tend to be stronger and fuller than other pale lagers or Munich Helles styles. They may also be a shade darker and a touch hoppier. The style originates from the city of Dortmund in northern Germany. Dortmunder Export came about during the industrial revolution, when Dortmund was the center of the coal and steel industries, and the swelling population needed a hearty and sustaining brew. The "export" appendage refers to the fact that Dortmunder beers were "exported" to surrounding regions. Today the term Dortmunder widely refers to stronger lagers brewed for export, though not necessarily from Dortmund.

Eisbock: This is the strongest type of bock. It is made by chilling a doppelbock until ice is formed. At this point, the ice is removed, leaving behind a brew with a higher concentration of alcohol. This also serves to concentrate the flavors, and the resultant beer is rich and powerful, with a pronounced malt sweetness and a warm alcoholic finish. Alcohol levels run to at least 8% ABV.

Billy Goat Gruff

Maibock/Pale Bock: Maibocks are medium to full-bodied lagers whose alcohol content can vary widely though is typically between 5-6% ABV. The color of pale bocks can vary from light bronze to deep amber and they are characterized by a sweet malty palate and subtle hop character. As its name would suggest this is a bock style that traditionally makes a spring appearance in May as a celebration of a new brewing season. In a Germanic brewers portfolio it should conventionally have a less assertive character than other bock offerings later in the year.

Munich Helles: Munich helles is a style of lager originating from Munich which is very soft and round on the palate with a pale to golden hue. These beers traditionally tend to be quite malt accented with subtle hop character. They are generally weightier than standard pale lagers though less substantial than Dortmunder Export styles. All the finest examples still come from the brewing center of Munich and are relatively easy to find in major US markets.

Vienna Style Lagers and Marzen/Fest Beers: The classic amber to red lager which was originally brewed in Austria in the 19th century has come to be known as the Vienna style. These are reddish-amber with a very malty toasted character and a hint of sweetness. This style of beer was adapted by the Munich brewers and in their hands has a noted malty sweetness and toasted flavor with a touch more richness. The use of the term Marzen, which is German for March, implies that the beer was brewed in March and lagered for many months. On a label, the words "fest marzen" or "Oktoberfest" generally imply the Vienna style. Oktoberfest beers have become popular as September seasonal brews among US craft brewers, though they are not always classic examples of the German or Austrian style.

Eins, zwei, zuffa!

As you can see, there is an entire universe of lagers out there that are not simple industrial, corn-based, yellow, fizzy swill beers. They literally range in color from very light to very dark, and offer a wide spectrum of flavors from sweet chocolate and licorice maltiness to bitter and zesty hop characters. You really do owe it to yourself to give these lesser-known but infinitely better variations of cold-fermented brew a try. You won’t be sorry.

Here’s to craft-brewed happiness… Cheers!